It is now May, so what does that mean? Yes, it does mean May flowers. Most importantly it is the time we celebrate Mother’s Day. It’s a day where we show our moms how much we appreciate her for all of the love she has given us and the sacrifices she has made for us. Celebration of motherhood dates back to the Greek and Roman times. Some have even said that it has been celebrated as far back as the Egyptian times. Through the years Mother’s Day has been celebrated in many different ways, but it wasn’t until 1914 that it was made an official holiday.
It is believed that the Egyptians first celebrated motherhood once a year and it spread to the Greeks and Romans. In Egypt, Isis was the goddess of motherhood, in which an annual celebration was held celebrating her care over her people. Years later, the Greeks and Romans celebrated their goddesses of motherhood, Rhea and Cybele. When Christianity came along, people began celebrating “Mothering Sunday.
“Mothering Sunday” was held on the fourth Sunday of Lent, where people would go to church near where they lived. The servants were given this day off, so they went home and attended the church where they lived. Over the years, it became less and less about going to church, but more of a celebration of giving gifts to one’s mother and having family time. So how did Mother’s Day begin as we now know it?
Anna Jarvis is the person who was responsible for getting President Woodrow Wilson to sign Mother’s Day as a National holiday. After numerous letter writing and petitions some states celebrated Mother’s Day, then in 1914 President Wilson officially signed it into law. Anna’s persistence probably came from when she heard her mother say a little prayer after Sunday school, when she was a little girl, asking for people to appreciate mothers and all the sacrifices they make for their children.
Jarvis became so infuriated when her holiday, as she referred to it, became a commercial holiday, taking away what she had intended it to be. She wanted Mother’s Day to be a day of celebrating mothers, their love and all they do, how dare it be ruined with commercialism. She was so infuriated that she spent her inheritance in courts to put a stop to the commercialism. Yes, she spent the last few years of her life in a sanitarium and penniless.
Today, Mother’s Day is celebrated around the world, but on different dates. Some countries continue to celebrate Mother’s Day on the fourth Sunday of Lent, coinciding with Easter. Several countries celebrate it on the second Sunday in May, whereas others celebrate it on International Women’s Day. Mother’s Day is celebrated from February to December depending upon that country’s day of choice and reason.
As you see, motherhood has been celebrated from ancient times to modern times, all in a unique way. In modern times, mothers are appreciated by gifts from her family, whether they attend church or not. Gifts include cards, flowers, chocolates, and/or jewelry. These gifts are personalized to each mother, moms are not one size fits all. So, how do you celebrate your mom on Mother’s Day?
Here are some beautiful jewelry pieces that your mom is sure to love.
What makes Art Nouveau jewelry so unique? After all, it is jewelry that was made in the late 19th century. Even though it is old, it does command a high price point. Why you ask. It is due to its rarity and quality handcraftsmanship. Art Nouveau jewelry was a new trend, in which new material and a unique style developed by handcrafting beautiful jewelry based on art and not valuable materials. This new style was accepted by many, however, there were some who thought it was audacious.
Art Nouveau movement started in the late 19th century through the early 20th century, due to several factors. “The term art nouveau first appeared in the 1880s in the Belgian journal L’ Art Moderne to describe the work of Les Vingt, twenty painters and sculptors seeking reform through art.” (www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/artn/hd_artn) As for jewelers, they were disgusted with the shoddy work produced by massed produced jewelry, whereas, handcrafted jewelry produced better quality.
December 1895, Samuel Siegfried Bing, German who moved to Paris, opened his art gallery L’ Art Nouveau filling it with contemporary décor. Bing’s shop is what gave the movement its name as Art Nouveau. However, not all countries call this movement Art Nouveau.
Germany – Jugendstil
Belgium – Art Nouveau
Netherlands – Paling Stijl
Austria- Secessionstil
Spain – Modernismo
England, then the US – Arts and Crafts was still during this period
New innovations and artistic styles emerged during this time period, due to the re-opening of trade between the west and Japan. Japanese art was displayed in Bing’s gallery exposing different styles and colors to the public. Inspired by the Japanese’s use of style, color, and new materials that were used.
The materials that the jewelers used were mixed metals, enamel techniques, glass, and gemstones for accents. Previously, gemstones were used to design jewelry for value, but not so for Art Nouveau jewelry, it was designed for art. Opal, moonstone, pearls, citrine, turquoise, peridote, diamonds, sapphire, and ruby were some of the gemstones used. Auguste Victor Louis Verneuil successfully made the first synthetic ruby called Verneuil ruby. Enamel techniques used were plique-a-jour, champlevé, cloisonné, and pate-de-verre. The colors jewelers used and the techniques they used made their pieces flow, like pieces of art.
Jewelers incorporated in their jewelry, curvy, wavy, and sinuous lines or “whiplash” lines. The jewelers of Art Nouveau were very good at showing movement in their jewelry. Women’s faces and flowing hair was another motif, however, the most controversial was the nude/semi nude woman. Can you just see the people’s expression of shock? Other types of the motifs were of nature, dragonflies, butterflies, peacocks, flowers, sea creatures, lizzards, and landscapes. Snakes, made during the Victorian Era symbolized eternal love, but took on a different look. A look of movement.
France: Rene Lalique, Georges Fouquet, Henri Vever, and Etienne Tourette
Germany: Wilhelm Lucas Von Cranach designer, Louis Werner made the jewelry
Austria: Josef Hoffman, Koloman Moser designed and the Viennese Workshop made most of the jewelry
Spain: Luis Mariera
Scandinavia: Georg Jensen
England: Archibald Knox, Charles Ashbee
United States: Tiffany and Co.
Boucheron, Cartier, and Chaumet made only a few pieces of jewelry.
Art Nouveau only lasted a short time, up until WWI. Over the years, some pieces were melted down and the gemstones were placed in a new setting. However, you can still find Art Nouveau jewelry made by some of the famous jewelers like, Rene Lalique, Henri Vever, Archibald Knox, and others. Thanks to these innovators in jewelry designs, jewelry became flowing and picturesque.
Spring is a beautiful time of year, bringing with it beautiful flowers and Easter. This is the time of year when women are buying beautiful springtime dresses or outfits for themselves and/or their children to wear for Easter, whether it is to attend church and/or family gatherings. Of course, your Easter attire would not be complete without jewelry. As a little girl, I loved Easter, not just for the chocolates and candies the Easter bunny left me or Easter egg hunting with my cousins, but going shopping for the perfect dress I would wear on Easter Day. How do you celebrate Easter? So, when did buying dresses for Easter begin?
Spring is a time of rebirth, flowers and trees coming back to life after a long cold winter and melting of snow. For those of us who live in cold climates, spring is a welcomed sight after a while. Rebirth can mean, the time Jesus came to earth, died on the cross, and ascended to Heaven, a new life in Christ. After being baptized, early Christians would wear white robes, symbolizing rebirth.
So, where does the Easter bunny hop onto the scene? One tradition is “the Easter bunny evolved out of ancient fertility and spring celebrations,” (Goodhousekeeping.com) We all know how rabbits multiply, speaking of rebirth. According to an old German story, an old woman would hide brightly colored eggs for the children to find and they would eat them as treats, once found. When the children saw a bunny hopping by, they came to the conclusion that it was the bunny who was leaving the eggs behind. However,it wasn’t until after the American Civil War that Easter was celebrated as we know it today.
Starting in 1870, New York held an Easter Parade where the wealthy would buy beautiful hats and dresses showing off their newly purchased spring clothing. This gave way to the New York fashion shows, just as the fashion shows, women were showing off what would become the latest trends and things to come for spring.
Wikimedia Commons
In 1885, Russian Tsar Alexander III commissioned a Faberge egg with a ruby inside. His wife, Maria Feodorovna, loved it so much that he had Peter Carl Faberge create a Faberge egg every Easter, for her.
Fast forward to Spring 2020, you will find rubies, diamonds, pearls, and other gemstone jewelry that will perfectly accent your spring and Easter dresses and outfits.
This Easter will be uniquely celebrated due to the coronavirus keeping us sheltered in place .How are you celebrating Easter in 2020? Will all of your traditions change? As Spock, from Star Trek would say, “May you live long and prosper.”
What comes to mind when you hear “Valentine’s Day”? Chocolates, flowers, card, a romantic evening, and/or jewelry? What about couples engagements? Yes, these occur in some fashion in today’s society. However, Valentines wasn’t all rosy and sweet back in the day, many many years in the past. So how has the celebration of Valentine’s evolved from outlandish times to amore?
February 15th, as far back as the 6th century, Lupercalia, a pagan fertility festival, involved Roman priests sacrificing a goat and a dog using the blood soaked hides they would slap women as a fertility blessing. “According to legend, women would later put their names in an urn and be selected to be paired with a man for a year.” (historychannel.com) Some of those couples stayed together until the next Lupercalia, however, others got married.
It has been said that Valentine’s Day was named after two Roman Saint Valentines, one of which was executed by Emperor Claudias, Emperor Claudias didn’t want young men to be married, because he believed married men didn’t fight in wars so well, their minds were at home on their wives, whereas, young men concentrated more on fighting. A priest named Valentine married young couples against the Emperor’s wishes, which landed Valentine in prison. While imprisoned, he fell in love with a jailor’s daughter. (Another account said that he healed a jailor’s daughter.) Before being executed, on February 14th, Valentine ended the letter, “Your Valentine.” http://www.history.com/news/6-surprising-facts-about-st-Valentine There hasn’t been any facts to back this up. Either way, you could look at it as a romantic story, young couples and a priest believing in love and the holy sanctity of marriage.
Who can forget the writings of Chaucer and Shakespeare?! It is quite possible that Geoffrey Chaucer’s “The Parliament of Fowls” started the celebration of Valentine’s Day. “The poem ends with a song praising Saint Valentine, ‘providing promise that, even in the depths of winter, summer is not all that far off. Perhaps that’s why we still celebrate a holiday of romantic love at this time of year.” (Kelly Sundberg Seaman) In Shakespeare’s Hamlet, Ophelia makes reference to Saint Valentine. “Tomorrow is Saint Valentine’s day, All in the morning bedtime, and I a maid at your window, to be your Valentine.” With that said, could these great writers really responsible for the celebration of Valentine’s Days?
By the 1840s, Valentine’s love was in the air with romantic celebrations. During this time, beautiful cards were given, as well as gifts. Beforehand, notes were written to love ones expressing their love. Later was a beautiful idea by Cadbury, who invented heart-shaped boxes, in which to put chocolates.
Cadbury created beautifully decorated heart-shaped boxes, filling them with chocolate. Cadbury had created a new and improved chocolate recipe, and put these better tasting chocolates in boxes, that were available in a variety of designs. The boxes served dual purpose, 1) a Valentine was given a beautiful box of chocolates 2) she was able to reuse it for things like mementos. According to the History Channel “Victorian-Era Cadbury boxes still exist, and many are treasured family heirlooms or valuable items prized by collectors.”
In the late 19th century, Cecil Rhodes bought a couple of diamond mines, one of which was from two De Beers brothers. After buying a mine from one of his rival, Barney Barnato, he named his company De Beers Mining Company. Few years later, Rhodes owned nearly all of the diamond mines. According to Business Insider, ” In 1888, De Beers Consolidated Mines, Ltd was formed.” When Rhodes died in 1902, he owned 90% of the diamond production. However, it wasn’t until Ernest Oppenheimer that an empire was made. When diamond prices fell around the world, Oppenheimer’s son, Henry, approached a New York ad agency. From this, came the slogan, “A Diamond is Forever,” in 1947. It was so successful, that everyone felt they had to give their love a diamond engagement ring, because diamonds symbolized eternal love. Women were so happy and showed all her friends her sparkling diamond engagement ring.
Fast forward to today, you will see De Beer’s slogan has worked so well that most believe an engagement ring must be diamond(s). Others, prefer gemstones, such as, rubies or sapphires. What gemstone(s) do you prefer in your engagement ring?
For this Valentine’s, are you unsure what you would like to get for your Valentine? Pearls are also popular for Valentines and are in a variety of jewelry style, such as necklaces, rings, earrings, bracelets, and watches. Don’t forget the flowers!
Valentin’s love, down through the ages has proven to be unique and interesting, and full of romance, with symbolism. How will you celebrate Valentine’s Day?
You are engaged and are preparing for your wedding day, the day you have dreamed about your whole life. Your fiancée and you have set the wedding date, so the preparations are taking place. You are so involved in planning your special day, that you almost forgot to choose a wedding band that will compliment your beautiful engagement ring. Should it be purchased at the same jewelry store as the engagement ring? Maybe another jewelry store will have one even more beautiful. My second daughter’s engagement ring was purchased from a jewelry store where they live, however, several months before their wedding day they found a beautiful wedding band perfectly complementing her beautiful diamond engagement ring and even a wedding band for her future husband, in my store. Sometimes wedding rings are passed down from generations passed. My second daughter, who has such loving in-laws, was fortunate enough to have her wedding ring passed down to her. What honor and love was bestowed upon her by her husband’s family. So, how did the exchanging of wedding rings begin?
After researching wedding rings, most resources combined engagement rings and wedding rings together with more emphasis on engagement rings. Engagement rings are given as a promise to be wed, as well as, displaying to the world that you will be making a lifetime commitment. Wedding rings are given at the wedding ceremony to promise a lifetime of love and commitment to one another.
Wedding rings can be traced back as early as the ancient Egyptian, some say even earlier. Their rings were made from hemp or reeds. Those that were made from better materials, such as ivory, displayed wealth. In ancient Romans times wedding rings were made of gold and iron. The gold rings were worn in public, however, was replaced by an iron ring when at home.
During the Georgian Era, the reign of King George I – IV, wedding rings were worn only by women. The wedding rings were made of gold and had scroll work or had designs inspired by nature. Sometimes gemstones, such as sapphires were used.
During the Victorian Era, the reign of Queen Victoria, serpent rings became very popular. The trend was started by Prince Albert who gave his beloved a serpent ring, signifying eternal love and eternity. Wedding rings were made of gold, and sometimes gemstones, such as sapphires and rubies. Rings during this period was more extravagant.
Edwardian Era wedding rings were made of gold and incorporated a fairly new technique called millegrain. A new metal, called platinum, was used during this time to make jewelry, then came WWI. Platinum was in demand during the war time efforts for armaments, as well as some other metals.
Royals have the choice of wearing wedding rings, with some choosing to wear a ring and some choosing not to. Prince Philip, the Duke of Edinburgh, chose not to wear a wedding ring, however, Prince Charles chose to wear a wedding ring with his signet ring when he married Princess Diana. When he married Camilla, he did the same. Prince William, like his grandfather, chose not to wear a wedding ring, but his brother, Prince Harry chose to wear one.
American men didn’t wear wedding rings, but that all changed during WWII, and the Korean war. To those who went off to war, the wedding ring served as a reminder of their loved one back home. By the Korean war even civilian men chose to wear wedding rings.
Today, men and women have the option to wear a new style of wedding ring, which is made from medical grade silicone. Why? Metal rings can get scratched and can get hung up on things, with the possibility of severing their fingers. Silicone rings are durable and are breathable, so that moisture doesn’t become trapped causing problems for the wearer. If the ring gets hung up on something, it will break saving their finger.
Silicone Wedding Bands in Multiple Colors SafeRingz.com
Did you know that not all countries wear their wedding rings on their left hand? In some countries like Hungary, the engagement ring is worn on the left hand. However, on their wedding day, the wedding ring is placed on the right hand. Different countries around the world have different wedding jewelry traditions, making us all unique.
From ancient Egyptian times to today, making wedding rings have changed from the use of different materials, different gemstones, and different techniques used to create each piece. What a wonderful and unique world we live in!
Fall is around the corner and with it comes new jewelry styles. However, some have remained the same, such as, statement pieces, bib necklaces, chandelier earrings, and anklets. Also remaining in style, is mixing and matching your earrings or just wearing one earring this fall/winter season. Whereas, jewelry designed with pearls have changed from your normal everyday pearl jewelry.
New trending jewelry styles for this fall/winter season are full of curves and twists, artistic style, color, jewelry sets, and parures. And, Dries Van Noten designed lucite bracelets having a futuristic flare.
A couple of years ago my youngest daughter, who will always be me baby girl, was engaged to a wonderful man. He presented her with a stunning diamond engagement ring on vacation. When she said yes, what a joyous time that was for them both. I’m sure he was nervous, just like when my husband proposed to me. Ladies, remember when the love of your life proposed to you with a stunning engagement ring that took your breath away. What a joyous event that took place in your life! By the way, did you know that engagement rings haven’t always contained stones or diamonds?
Giving engagement rings began in Egyptian times. The rings were made from “reeds and hemp with its circular shape representing the circle of life, the sun, and moon to form a bond between husband and wife.” (www.capetowndiamondmuseam.com/historyofengagementring) Engagement rings were worn on the left hand on the third finger, because the Egyptians believed that there was a vein that ran from the heart to the third finger, signifying love. Then later in Roman times, engagement rings were made from metal, lead, brass, and copper.
The Romans gave an engagement ring to represent ownership of his future bride; my how times have changed. According to antiquetrader.com, the engagement ring signified a marriage contract that was in place, as well as, symbolizing the ownership of the daughter would soon transfer from the father to the future groom. In public, the gold ring would be worn, gold represented wealth, however, at home the young lady took off the gold ring and replaced it with an iron one.
It wasn’t until 1477, when Archduke Maximillion of Austria gave his beloved, Mary of Burgandy a diamond engagement ring, which started the diamond engagement ring. The diamonds were set in the shape of an M for Mary. She was so taken back that she left the man she was with to marry the Archduke. I guess the saying is true, “A diamond is a girl’s best friend.” The diamond engagement ring set a trend with those who could afford diamond jewelry.
Not everyone could afford diamonds during this time, only the Aristocrats and nobility. During this time, diamonds were mined in India, where they were first discovered. A law was passed that only the rich could wear expensive jewelry because it displayed wealth. Later, that law was not always followed. In the 18th century diamonds became abundant due to the discovery of diamonds in Africa, allowing even the middle class to afford them. It wasn’t until the Edwardian period that diamond engagement rings really became popular.
Lang Antique Edwardian 3 Diamond Engagement Ring
During the Great Depression fake diamonds, spinals, amethysts, citrine, and pearls were used in engagement rings. Then in 1938, DeBeers Co., who owned 90% of the diamonds in Africa, started a marketing campaign, “A diamond is forever,” in order to help the sales of diamond engagement rings.
Today, diamond engagement rings are still given to the love of a man’s life, continuing the symbolizing spending eternity with his love. However, some prefer other stones, for example, sapphires are the main stone in an engagement ring. Traditions are different for different people. Did you know that not all engagement rings are placed on the woman’s left hand? Countries in Western Europe, such as England, France, Germany, and Norway, as well as Canada and Russia are some of the countries where women wear their engagement rings on their right hand. In France, popular engagement rings have rubies, emeralds and sapphires In Chile, both men and women wear engagement rings and on their right hand. In Hindu cultures, some women wear toe rings called Bichiya, while some women choose the western culture of wearing engagement rings. Are you familiar with any others?
Isn’t it amazing how far the engagement ring has changed from Egyptian times through today?! As time has progressed, so have the materials of the engagement ring and its reason behind it. However, one thing has remained the same, the reason for giving it, a man wanting to spend the rest his life with the woman he loves.
During the Arts & Crafts Movement, late 1800s to early 1900s, there was much controversy due to the Industrial Revolution. How did it begin? John Ruskin and William Morris were the proponents of the social movement leading the way against the Industrial Revolution. Seeing the lack of quality the machines were producing, people wanted to return to handcrafting products. C.R Ashbee, a jewelry maker who led the way in the jewelry industry, wanted to return to handcrafting jewelry. However, there were a few companies who didn’t follow the Arts & Crafts movement, instead, they mass produced in the Arts & Crafts style. Men weren’t the only notable jewelry makers, women, also, had established themselves as notable jewelry makers. Husband and wife teams created beautiful jewelry. So, what design elements influenced these handcraftsman?
“Anxieties about industrial life fueled a positive revaluation of handcraftsmanship and precapitalist forms of culture and society.” (metmuseum.org) John Ruskin, an art critic, and William Morris, an artist and designer, believed that things made by machines resulted in dehumanizing workers and artists, the work was shody, and exploited the workers. They wanted to return to the days when things were handmade in the Medieval and Renaissance eras, where quality prevailed. Morris believed that products should be made from beginning to end by only one person.
C.R. Ashbee was a jeweler who also believed in the Arts & Crafts Movement. After translating Cellini’s notes, he started his Guild of Handicraft using Cellini’s techniques. Ashbee trained many people in his Guild and several imitated his Guild. Those include The Birmingham Guild, and The Viennese Workshop. According to langsantiques.com, Ashbee’s influence can be seen throughout the work of many Arts & Crafts Guilds and artisians. What a compliment! However, there were some companies who did not follow the handcraft movement, instead they sold mass produced jewelry in the Arts & Crafts style.
Liberty & Co. – An English company with notable jewelry artisians are Archibald Knox, Celtic style; W.H. Haseler & Son, Bernard Cuzner, Jessie King, and Arthur Gaskin. Recognizable pieces from Liberty are enamel in their designs and concave leaves with a translucent enamel filler.
Charles Horner – Located in England. Also mass producing in Art Nouveau style.
Murrle, Bennet & Co. – German influence and located in Pforzhein, Germany. Also worked alongside English companies.
In the Arts & Crafts Movement husbands and wives would often work together and women apprenticed under men, receiving the recognition they most assuredly deserved. C.R. and Margaret Mackintosh, J. Herbert and Frances MacNair, and Arthur and Georgie Gaskin. Charlotte Newman apprenticed under John Brogden until his death, then she opened her business hiring as many as she could of Brogden’s craftsmen. Also May Morris, William Morris’ daughter, was a notable jewelry craftsman. Of course I can’t leave out notable American women metalsmiths and jewelry artisians. Florence Koehler, charter member of the Chicago Arts & Crafts Society; Marie Zimmermann, jewelry designer then developed metalsmithing skills. If the Arts & Crafts Movement started in England, how did it make it’s way to America without the internet?
If the internet did exist during this time the Americans would have began much sooner, instead, they found the information in publications such as The Craftsman, House Beautiful, and Ladies Home Journal. Also, people like C.R. Ashbee came to America influencing others and Arthur J. Stone moved to Boston and worked in silver.
A couple of notable American artisians were Charles Rohlfs from Buffalo, NY and Gustav Stickley, founder of The United Crafts, later became Craftsmen Workshops and “published the highly influentual The Craftsman (1901-1916), a beacon for American Arts & Crafts movement.” (metmuseum.org) Boston, New York, Chicago, and towns to California were affected by the Arts & Crafts, with varying differences from the east coast to the west coast. The Arts & Crafts movement not only encompassed jewelry but designs in porcelain, pottery, furniture, and wall paper designs that were simple and less frivolous. Now let’s continue to discuss the jewelry design element.
British Arts & Crafts Enamel Pendant Necklace
Courtesy of Lang Antiques
Jewelry was simple and practical. Silver was mostly used in jewelry designs and emphasis was not on emeralds or other precious gemstones. Gemstones cuts were cabochons to continue the simplistic look. Just because the jewelry was simple it didn’t lack detail. Enamel, silver, and gemstones such as mother of pearl, turquoise, and lapis lazuli, to name a few, were used in jewelry. If gold was used it was as an accent. Motifs were flowers, natural foliage, leaves, and a few insects.
Tiaras – natural designs with enamel
Earrings – weren’t invogue so many were not made
Necklaces – chains with enameled pendants and cabochon gemstones
Dog-Collars or chokers – were designed in enamel plaques
Brooches – enameled insects, flowers, and leaves
Bracelets – chain links in metal style plaques, ribbons, and flowers
Rings – “Carved metal stylized feminine motifs and wrap around insects and plants clutched cabochons to form the few rings designed in the Style.” (langantiques.com)
Arts & Crafts Opal, Sapphire, and Pearl Dinner Ring
Courtesy of Lang Antiques
I should also mention that the handcrafted jewelry was light and came at a high cost.
Nothing like a little revaluation to simplify things. I don’t want to leave out the Japanese influence which was also very desirable, with “their innovative use of mixed metals, began to seep into jewelry design.” (langantiques.com) The Arts & Crafts Movement also carried through the Art Nouveau, Edwardian Era, and the Belle Epoque. I guess this jewelry time period is like today, it carries over and doesn’t fully disappear.
The featured necklace is an Arts & Crafts amethyst and seed pearl lavaliere
Now that spring has sprung and I am behind in talking about this season’s jewelry trends, so what is trending?
This season is big and bold statement pieces, with some dainty jewelry still trending. Gold is always in vogue, however silver is more popular this season. Colorful jewelry is popular in New York, London, and Milan, whereas in France, jewelry is designed using more metals. All in all, you will find the jewelry trend is having overlapping styles.
Statement Jewelry
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Hoop Earrings
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Resin Jewelry
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Long Crystal Earrings
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Chokers
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Ear Cuffs
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Cuff Bracelet
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Floral Jewelry
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Hearts
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Shells
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Charms
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Large Chains
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Stellar Jewelry
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Logos
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Body Jewelry
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These are just a few jewelry styles you will see this season. Some styles have carried over from previous seasons, while a few have been expanded upon.
The feature choker can be found at poshmark.com/closet/redvelvetrebel
The Victorian Era derives its name from Queen Victoria’s reign. Each monarch is marked by the reign of an English King, or in this case Queen. For example, the Georgian Era is named for Kings George I, II, II, IV, and King William, who was King George III’s son. The Victorian Age is divided into 3 periods, the Early Victorian (Romantic), the middle (Grand), and the Late Victorian (Aesthetic). Just as queens, princesses, and high-profile people of today set fashion standards, so did Queen Victoria, Empress Eugenie of France, and actors and actresses. Jewelry was not influenced by the English only, but by other countries like, France, Germany, Italy, and Greece. History, archeological discoveries and some conquering countries influenced jewelry designs and some jewelers’ perception. Each period had certain metals, gemstones, motifs, and differing styles that either faded out or were expanded upon. Some jewelry was carried over from the Georgian Era into the Victorian Era. In many aspects, the Victorian Era was full of changes.
ROMANTIC Period 1837 -1860
The Romantic period started with Victoria’s ascension to the throne. This was also the time of deep love and admiration between Prince Albert and Queen Victoria, which was felt throughout the nation. Prince Albert gave Queen a serpent ring with its tail in its mouth and a beautiful emerald on its head, symbolizing love eternal. I don’t know about you, but I would be upset if I got a serpent ring from my husband, even if it symbolizes love eternal. How would you react?
People during this time were enthused by the Renaissance and the Middle Ages, with its reflection of the arts and jewelry. Cameos were adored by Queen Victoria, therefore everyone had to own one. Cameo’s were made from coral, onyx, shell, and agate, just to name a few.
Jewelry was being manufactored like never before, including costume jewelry. Yes, there were some who revolted against mass produced jewelry, so they made jewelry by hand. Costume jewelry was made with the new technology called electroplating, which meant jewelry was more affordable. Using colored glass, instead of gemstones, was another way to make jewelry more affordable.
After the French conquered Algeria, jewelers turned the Algerians design elements, like knots and tassels into jewelry. After the publishing of Sir Austin Henry Laynard’s book, Algerian jewelry was all the rage.
Italian micro-mosaics and jewelry made from lava was in vogue, especially as souvenirs. Some treasures from the excavation sites, like lava from Pompii, were another wonderful souvenir to take back home.
After Queen Victoria and Prince Albert went to Scotland for their honeymoon. She had to have jewelry made with agate and gemstones from Scotland. As you can imagine, when they returned from their honeymoon everyone had to have jewelry like the Queen’s.
Mourning jewelry consisted of either locks of loved one’s hair, with jet, or other things. . Women were encouraged to learn the this art skill, ensuring that it was their loved one’s hair being used in the jewelry and not someone else’s. An interesting item made from hair, was a big portrait of Queen Victoria at the Paris Exposition in 1855. Jet from Whitby, England was so popular that people would go to Whitby for it. Some other things used in mourning jewelry was French jet (glass), vulcanized rubber, and bog wood usually from Ireland.
What were some of the metals, gemstone cuts, and gemstones worn by the Victorians?
Gold had to be 18 kt to 22 kts to be sold and to have the crown hallmark.
In ????, gold could be sold in 9 kt, 10 kt, and 15 kt.
Repousse was still being used on metal sheets.
Gemstone Cuts
Rose cut – round shape with a dome and flat bottom
Old Mine – rounded square shape with many facets
Cabochon – rounded top and flat bottom
Gemstones
Agate, amethyst, chalcedony, chrysoberyl, diamond, emerald, garnet seed pearls, turquoise, lava stone, coral, and ivory just to name a few.
Jewelry Worn
Long earrings in the evening until 1840. After that hair styles covered the ears and bonnets were worn.
In 1850 bonnets were no longer worn and hair style was away from the face and earrings became really fashionable.
Tiaras framed the face.
Ferronieres were chains that went around the head with a gemstone resting on the forehead.
Necklaces and canntille were worn close to the neck
Serpent necklaces were popular
Riviere made with amethyst, pearls, coral beads, and cameos
Girandoles
Parures
Pendents and lockets were suspended from chains or ribbons, featuring insects and florals
Brooches with some doubling as pendents. The pins extended past the brooch.
Bracelets were worn in multiples and worn over the gloves for evening wear.
Rings were gemstones or even worn as mourning jewelry
These are just a few jewelry pieces the Victorians wore.
Grand 1860 – 1885
The Grand period began with the death of Prince Albert, Queen Victoria’s beloved husband, she mourned his death until she died in 1901. Before Prince Albert’s death, Queen Victoria’s mother had passed away. So you can see how this was a sad time in her life. Then during this time the American Civil War was beginning.
Jewelry reflected this dark time in Queen Victoria’s life. Mourning jewelry still consisted of jet from Whitby, French Jet, hair from the death of a loved one, vulcanized rubber, and bog oak from Ireland. Regarding other styles of jewelry, some remained the same while new ones came about.
The gemstone cuts remained the same, rose cut, old mine cut, and cabochon. Cameos and intaglios remained as well. Some new motifs were stars inside of cameos, insects, leaves, butterflies, acorns. dragonflies, and bees just to name a few. Over the years there were some advancements and discoveries.
As you know, technology and discoveries are always eminent; this is no exception to jewelry.
1840 – “In 1840, the Industrial Revolution added stamping and electroplating techniques to the jeweler’s bag of tricks, which allowed gold to be used more economically, thus reducing prices to customers. (www.collectorsweekly.com)
1860 – Silver was discovered in Nevada and was frequently used in jewelry.
1867 – South African diamond mines were discovered.
1870 – Opals were found in Austalia, but were thought to bring bad luck, possibly due to a book written by Sir Walter Scott in 1829, Anne of Geirestein. After the Queen found favor with them, opals became popular.
During this period pinchbeck was later replaced by rolled gold.
Aesthetic Period 1885 – 1901
The late Victorian or Aesthetic Period changed in many ways. Women were more active in the business world and held political offices. Women founded the Primrose League in 1885 and the Women’s Liberal Foundation in 1886. This is around the time women were fighting for voting rights. Women were also finding interests in bicycling and sports like tennis. When they went out for a bicycle ride they often wore a bracelet with a whistle that could be heard up to two miles. Great to have when they were riding alone.
Women who considered themselves fashionable, wanted to show that they could be a little naughty, frivolous, and self confident showing that they were a modern woman. My how times changed over the years! These ladies were know as the Gibson girl. This short video is a good representation of the Gibson girl.
Robert Flair- The Gibson Girl Documentary
With these new changes came changes in jewelry and a few influences remained the same while others were new. Jewelry became smaller and lighter to accommodate the lifestyle changes. The Etruscan and Egyptian influences were still in vogue. As you know trends can also come about by high-profile people. Sandra Bernhardt was one of those people, everyone just loved her. Her role in Cleopatra brought about a jewelry trend, where women just had to have the jewelry she wore in the show. A new influence in jewelry was the Japanese style jewelry depicting love and good fortune. During this time the Arts and Crafts period began, a revolt against industrial making of fine arts and jewelry. William Morris and C. R. Ashbee were leading the way. In France there was a different trend taking place. During this time, the French jewelry trend was transitioning to the Art Nouveau. Rene Lalique was one of the well known jewelers of Art Nouveau.
Regarding metals, gemstone cuts, and gemstones some remained the same and there were a few new ones.
Metals
Gold, rolled gold, silver, oxidized silver, and platinum
Gemstone Cuts
Rose cut – round shape with a dome and flat bottom
Old Mine cut – rounded square shape with many facets
Cabochon – rounded top and flat bottom
Old European cut – round faceted shape
Gemstones
Amethyst, aquamarine, chrysoberyl, chrysoprase, diamond, emerald, moonstone, opal, ruby, sapphire, and turquoise just to name a few.
Motifs
Mizpah jewelry – worn by people who were separated for whatever reason. The meaning is “the Lord watch between me and thee while we are absent one from another” (www.gemsociety.org)
Jewelry with animal heads, bows, clovers, cresents, horseshoes, knots, stars, oak leaves, and combination of double hearts with crowns or knots.
At the Chicago Expo, electricity was definitely an attraction especially with the sparkle of diamonds and other gemstones. Tiffany and Gorham jewelry were popular during this event. What an exciting time this must have been for them!
As you can see, jewelry at the beginning of the Victorian Era to Late Victorian underwent several changes and influences. Jewelry went from large and heavy to small and light.
British Victorian Snake Wedding Ring 
Charissa Jewelry 