What is Bakelite and Lucite Jewelry?

Who has heard of Bakelite and Lucite jewelry? I’m embarrassed to say, I haven’t, that is until my aunt, who designs jewelry, asked me to blog about the two. Bakelite and Lucite both have a very interesting history that dates back to the early 1900s, in which neither were first created for jewelry.

Bakelite was named after its inventor, Leo Bakelite, in 1909. He initially created it for industrial purposes, for things like radios, because it was light weight. Mr. Bakelite made his concoction from phenol and formaldehyde and a few other ingredients. I don’t know about you, but when I saw formaldehyde, it got my attention. Continuing on with my research, I discovered that Bakelite is just a fire resistant plastic. Later on, some jewelers discovered it and thought it would be a viable option.

Jewelry designers liked it because of its light weight and durability. Bakelite was a more economical option, for those wanting to look like they had spent a lot of money on their jewelry. It didn’t take long before high end jewelry designer like Coco Chanel to begin incorporating Bakelite in her jewelry designs in Paris. In the 1930s and 1940s Bakelite jewelry became popular, because brighter colors were added to give jewelry a nice burst of color.

Types of jewelry made with Bakelite: 

 Solid colors with red being the most valuable to collectors.

Dress clips. Courtesy of Roxanna poshmark.com/closet/roxychicago

 

Marbled with green and yellow are found today. You will also see butterscotch and brown. Collectors, however, look for marbling of more than two colors, which is rare.

Transparent colored Bakelite is another favorite, in colors such as yellow, green, and red. Collectors call the yellow transparent Bakelite “apple juice” and the red “cherry juice.” When you see those colors you would see that it is understandably named.

Laminated jewelry allows two or more colors to be stacked on top of one another with special glue and then polished so that it looks like one piece. How ingenious!

Reversed carved Bakelite is can be transparent. Oh my goodness is it beautifully done! It looks as if there are flowers put inside. This one is my favorite. Be careful because it can be mistaken for Lucite. Look for transparent color, sometimes marbled; whereas, Lucite will be crystal clear.  Collectors like the stretched style bangles and are elaborately decorated.

Resin washed, known as overdyed, is where the piece is wiped with a wash or glaze so that the color is highlighted and the carving is prominent. This is usually found on figural pieces.

Clad baked  This is another favorite of mine. It originated in Canada. It is a rare find nowadays and is adored by collectors. The piece of jewelry is partially metal clad or totally encased. The artwork that goes into the metal work is absolutely gorgeous.

Prystal is the trade name for the Catalin Corporation, an American company, that made a type of transparent Bakelite having several different colors. Prystal is often color changing, for example, green with plum highlights. Pretty, Pretty!

Bakelite was not poured into molds like today’s plastics. According to the Spruce Crafts.com, these and other materials are put through molds which forms rods. These rods are then further polished and transformed. This process differs from plastic now because of the hand finishing. I know this was a long quote, I just wanted to make sure you had the best description.

Vintage Bakelite prices range from a few dollars to a few thousand dollars. Knowing this you will want to be sure that the one you are wanting to buy is real.

Here are two techniques:

1. In a non conspicuous place using a cotton swab with 409 cleaner, touch the piece in question. If the cotton swab turns a yellow color, like a stain, it is real. Please be sure to rinse off the test area immediately.
2. Place the jewelry in hot water, then remove it and smell it. If it smells like camphor, it is real. By the way, this method is preferred by collectors.

Suppose you are looking for something a little different and a little lighter in weight. You’re in luck, because Lucite jewelry with its uniqueness is a lovely option.

Lucite is a translucent material that is lighter than Bakelite, and created in the 1930s. Lucite jewelry was made popular in the 1940s and 1950s, with some pieces  beautifully reversed carved giving it a 3-D look.

Reversed carved and painted floral Lucite bangle. Courtesy of Caroline  poshmark.com/closet/cmgsalang

 

In 1935, Rhom & Hass made Plexiglass that was used by the military for things such as, airplane windshields, periscopes, and noses of bombers. In 1937, Dupont created Lucite which was also used by the military. However, Dupont licensed Lucite to jewelers, which proved beneficial to them financially. How? No one likes heavy jewelry hanging from their necks or ears, so the light weight of Lucite and the way jewelers were able to create beautiful jewelry paid off. A nice ROI! Lucite is basically plexiglass or acrylic made from acrylic acid derivative meth acrylic and methanol.

Some companies who use Lucite:

Trifari – Cabochons created imitation rock crystals and Jelly Bellies. Jelly Bellies were created by carving figural animals on the Lucite, which were quite popular. It was even said that Alfred Philippe, creator of Jelly Belly, went to the Air Force scrap yard and recovered some windshields to carve them into Jelly Bellies. This was disputed because of the thickness of the windshields. However, it was said that the military men carved rings for their loved ones out of it. These rings would turn yellow over time, whereas, the Jelly Bellies didn’t, true ones are clear.

Coro – Seeing how popular the Jelly Bellies were, Coro thought they would get in on the act. Well, Trifari was not happy about this at all, so they took Coro to court, and then saw that many other companies were creating Jelly Belly look alikes. Another use of Lucite Coro used was making imitation moonstone and chalcedony.

Joseph H. Meyer Bros. – In the1940s, patented their version of Lucite called Satinore, which was referred to as moonglow jewelry. It was used to make broaches and imitation pearl necklaces.

1950’s Moonglow necklace. Courtesy of Caroline  poshmark.com/closet/cmgsalang

 

Lisner – Created many jewelry pieces and brightly colored pieces from Lucite. One of the most popular pieces he made were oak leaf pieces. Believe it or not, it hasn’t been until recently that collectors are finding favor with his creations.

In the 1960s, Lucite jewelry really became popular even on Carnaby Street in London where it was also sold. Cardin and Coureges capitalizing on the trend, they made dresses of PVC and accessories of Lucite and Perspex.

In the 1970s, the trend started losing its luster. By the 1980s and 1990s, prominent designers used Lucite in their jewelry once again. In 2017 and 2018, Lucite jewelry was on the runways at fashion shows, along with some heels made of Lucite. Another fashion accessory made with Lucite are purses and purse handles.

Vintage Lucite Box Purse Courtesy of Lisa Marie. poshmark.com/closet/lisamaried

So, if you are thinking about purchasing these fashion accessories, be aware that prices do vary.

Today’s prices for Lucite jewelry can range from a few dollars to $500 and more for more rare pieces. Vintage pieces range a few dollars to $1000 and more.

Bakelite and Lucite can be another beautiful alternative in jewelry. It’s beautiful and durable, as well as make a statement.