A Brief History on the Victorian Era Jewelry

The Victorian Era derives its name from Queen Victoria’s reign. Each monarch is marked by the reign of an English King, or in this case Queen. For example, the Georgian Era is named for Kings George I, II, II, IV, and King William, who was King George III’s son. The Victorian Age is divided into 3 periods, the Early Victorian (Romantic), the middle (Grand), and the Late Victorian (Aesthetic). Just as queens, princesses, and high-profile people of today set fashion standards, so did Queen Victoria, Empress Eugenie of France, and actors and actresses. Jewelry was not influenced by the English only, but by other countries like, France, Germany, Italy, and Greece. History, archeological discoveries and some conquering countries influenced jewelry designs and some jewelers’ perception. Each period had certain metals, gemstones, motifs, and differing styles that either faded out or were expanded upon. Some jewelry was carried over from the Georgian Era into the Victorian Era. In many aspects, the Victorian Era was full of changes.

ROMANTIC Period 1837 -1860

The Romantic period started with Victoria’s ascension to the throne. This was also the time of deep love and admiration between Prince Albert and Queen Victoria, which was felt throughout the nation. Prince Albert gave Queen a serpent ring with its tail in its mouth and a beautiful emerald on its head, symbolizing love eternal. I don’t know about you, but I would be upset if I got a serpent ring from my husband, even if it symbolizes love eternal. How would you react?

People during this time were enthused by the Renaissance  and the Middle Ages, with its reflection of the arts and jewelry. Cameos were adored by Queen Victoria, therefore everyone had to own one. Cameo’s were made from coral, onyx, shell, and agate, just to name a few.

Jewelry was being manufactored like never before, including costume jewelry. Yes, there were some who revolted against mass produced jewelry, so they made jewelry by hand. Costume jewelry was made with the new technology called electroplating, which meant jewelry was more affordable. Using colored glass, instead of gemstones, was another way to make jewelry more affordable.

After the French conquered Algeria, jewelers turned the Algerians design elements, like knots and tassels into jewelry. After the publishing of Sir Austin Henry Laynard’s book, Algerian jewelry was all the rage.

Italian micro-mosaics and jewelry made from lava was in vogue, especially as souvenirs. Some treasures from the excavation sites, like lava from Pompii, were another wonderful souvenir to take back home.

After Queen Victoria and Prince Albert went to Scotland for their honeymoon. She had to have jewelry made with agate and gemstones from Scotland. As you can imagine, when they returned from their honeymoon everyone had to have jewelry like the Queen’s.

Mourning jewelry consisted of either locks of loved one’s hair, with jet, or other things. . Women were encouraged to learn the this art skill, ensuring that it was their loved one’s hair being used in the jewelry and not someone else’s. An interesting item made from hair, was a big portrait of Queen Victoria at the Paris Exposition in 1855. Jet from Whitby, England was so popular that people would go to Whitby for it. Some other things used in mourning jewelry was French jet (glass), vulcanized rubber, and bog wood usually from Ireland.

What were some of the metals, gemstone cuts, and gemstones worn by the Victorians?

Metals

Gold, Silver, rolled gold (gold filled), gold electroplating, pinchbeck, aluminum, and cut steel

Gold had to be 18 kt to 22 kts to be sold and to have the crown hallmark.

In ????, gold could be sold in 9 kt, 10 kt, and 15 kt.

Repousse was still being used on metal sheets.

Gemstone Cuts

Rose cut –  round shape with a dome and flat bottom

Old Mine – rounded square shape with many facets

Cabochon –  rounded top and flat bottom

Gemstones

Agate, amethyst, chalcedony, chrysoberyl, diamond, emerald, garnet seed pearls, turquoise, lava stone, coral, and ivory just to name a few.

Jewelry Worn

Long earrings in the evening until 1840. After that hair styles covered the ears and bonnets were worn.

In 1850 bonnets were no longer worn and hair style was away from the face and earrings became really fashionable.

Tiaras framed the face.

Ferronieres were chains that went around the head with a gemstone resting on the forehead.

Necklaces and canntille were worn close to the neck

Serpent necklaces were popular

Riviere made with amethyst, pearls, coral beads, and cameos

Girandoles

Parures

Pendents and lockets were suspended from chains or ribbons, featuring insects and florals

Brooches with some doubling as pendents. The pins extended past the brooch.

Bracelets were worn in multiples and worn over the gloves for evening wear.

Rings were gemstones or even worn as mourning jewelry

These are just a few jewelry pieces the Victorians wore.

 

Grand 1860 – 1885

The Grand period began with the death of Prince Albert, Queen Victoria’s beloved husband, she mourned his death until she died in 1901. Before Prince Albert’s death, Queen Victoria’s mother had passed away. So you can see how this was a sad time in her life. Then during this time the American Civil War was beginning.

Jewelry reflected this dark time in Queen Victoria’s life. Mourning jewelry still consisted of jet from Whitby, French Jet, hair from the death of a loved one, vulcanized rubber, and bog oak from Ireland. Regarding other styles of jewelry, some remained the same while new ones came about.

The gemstone cuts remained the same, rose cut, old mine cut, and cabochon. Cameos and intaglios remained as well. Some new motifs were stars inside of cameos, insects, leaves, butterflies, acorns. dragonflies, and bees just to name a few. Over the years there were some advancements and discoveries.

As you know, technology and discoveries are always eminent; this is no exception to jewelry.

1840 – “In 1840, the Industrial Revolution added stamping and electroplating techniques to the jeweler’s bag of tricks, which allowed gold to be used more economically, thus reducing prices to customers. (www.collectorsweekly.com)

1860 – Silver was discovered in Nevada and was frequently used in jewelry.

1867 – South African diamond mines were discovered.

1870 – Opals were found in Austalia, but were thought to bring bad luck, possibly due to a book written by Sir Walter Scott in 1829, Anne of Geirestein. After the Queen found favor with them, opals became popular.

During this period pinchbeck was later replaced by rolled gold.

 

Aesthetic Period 1885 – 1901

The late Victorian or Aesthetic Period changed in many ways. Women were more active in the business world and held political offices. Women founded the Primrose League in 1885 and the Women’s Liberal Foundation in 1886. This is around the time women were fighting for voting rights. Women were also finding interests in bicycling and sports like tennis. When they went out for a bicycle ride they often wore a bracelet with a whistle that could be heard up to two miles. Great to have when they were riding alone.

Women who considered themselves fashionable, wanted to show that they could be a little naughty, frivolous, and self confident showing that they were a modern woman. My how times changed over the years! These ladies were know as the Gibson girl. This short video is a good representation of the Gibson girl.

Robert Flair- The Gibson Girl Documentary

With these new changes came changes in jewelry and a few influences remained the same while others were new. Jewelry became smaller and lighter to accommodate the lifestyle changes. The Etruscan and Egyptian influences were still in vogue.  As you know trends can also come about by high-profile people. Sandra Bernhardt was one of those people, everyone just loved her. Her role in Cleopatra brought about a jewelry trend, where women just had to have the jewelry she wore in the show. A new influence in jewelry was the Japanese style jewelry depicting love and good fortune. During this time the Arts and Crafts period began, a revolt against industrial making of fine arts and jewelry. William Morris and C. R. Ashbee were leading the way. In France there was a different trend taking place. During this time, the French jewelry trend was transitioning to the Art Nouveau. Rene Lalique was one of the well known jewelers of Art Nouveau.

Regarding metals, gemstone cuts, and gemstones some remained the same and there were a few new ones.

Metals

Gold, rolled gold, silver, oxidized silver, and platinum

Gemstone Cuts

Rose cut –  round shape with a dome and flat bottom

Old Mine cut – rounded square shape with many facets

Cabochon – rounded top and flat bottom

Old European cut – round faceted shape

Gemstones

Amethyst, aquamarine, chrysoberyl, chrysoprase, diamond, emerald, moonstone, opal, ruby, sapphire, and turquoise just to name a few.

Motifs

Mizpah jewelry – worn by people who were separated for whatever reason. The meaning is “the Lord watch between me and thee while we are absent one from another” (www.gemsociety.org)

Jewelry with animal heads, bows, clovers, cresents, horseshoes, knots, stars, oak leaves, and combination of double hearts with crowns or knots.

At the Chicago Expo, electricity was definitely an attraction especially with the sparkle of diamonds and other gemstones. Tiffany and Gorham jewelry were popular during this event. What an exciting time this must have been for them!

As you can see, jewelry at the beginning of the Victorian Era to Late Victorian underwent several changes and influences. Jewelry went from large and heavy to small and light.